Media Log

Jeju island.
The island which is abundant in winds, stones, and women. Actually, It is my home island which can be explained with these three things. Among those I am going to explain about stones.

When I look back on old days, I can remember vividly there are so many rocks in everywhere. Rocks, I was quite interested in.

I played with my friends stacking stone walls dividing into two sides and played a war game with throwing stones at each side.
Now a days, young kids who are more interested in video games can't imagine how we played with stones.

Probably, stones has influenced on not only kids but also every aspect of Jeju people's life.



Some people think volcanic soil is fertile but it's far from it. The volcanic land is barren because rain water always penetrates into the ground and doesn't hold on surface. And the barren land has given Jeju people hard life.

Land give us food and the food in Jeju island infers a culture of it. So, you can peep their life through the food.



Upon thinking of Jeju island, what is the first thing come up to you? There are so many but probably one of them it might be a 'stone grandfather' which rigidly stood in front of a gate.

'Harbang' is a local language for 'grandfather'. According to a record, it was called 'Wooseokmok' or 'Beok-su head'. Now, it is called as 'Dol-harbang in general.

There are various views about its origin.

First view is that it came from superstitions. When people believed in shamanism, they created their god figure took after man's penis. Which means it is a kind of phallus stone.

Second view is that it came from Mongolian culture. There is a similiar stone to 'stone grandfather' in Mongolia called 'Hunchollo'. Jeju island had been occupied by Mongolian for 150 years. It might influence on Jeju culture.

Anyway its function was to give people property and prevent from evil spirit. It maintains a close relationship with the lives of the people in Jeju.



There are many abbreviations in Jeju language. For example, We call 'San' for a grave('San-so' in Korean). And a stone wall surrounding a grave is called 'Sandam'('dam' means wall).
One interesting thing is that according to Jeju custom people stack up a stone wall around their ancestor's grave.

When I traveled in other island, I was surprised to see a grave stone walls. It was a round shape stone wall while it is square shape in Jeju island.

Originally, they have stacked up stone walls surround the ancestor's grave to prevent wild animals from coming into or fire spreading on the grave.

Now a days a size of stone wall shows an achievement during their ancestor's life time.



Another peculiar funeral custom in Jeju island is a child stone.

In Jeju island the old always is accompanied by a child. The reason is that there are few schools in those days, so that a child need to have chances to learn. They need each other for learning for children and preventive measures for an emergency situations for the olds.

Generally, funeral and death always show apathy of life, cold and solemn. But Jeju island's funeral shows warm and relax to part their loved ancestors.




Jeju stone mill which is called 'Molgorye' in Jeju word. 'Mol' means a horse, and 'gorye' means grind.

This is one of stone cultures in Jeju island extinguished now a days. It was was operated by a horse or cow power to grind crops in a communal place. Now, it is displayed on a corner of a village only use for welcoming tourists.


There is a funny joke. If horses on the mill don't work diligently, people put a female horse in front and male horse on the other side to chase each. then it works well.



When you travel in Jeju coast lines, you can see stone labyrinths. Fish come in during high tide and couldn't get out in low tide. It is called 'wondam'

* Notice- This article is written by none native English speaker


The weather was perfect today.

 

I had decided to climb up to the top of 'Darangshi' crater with my family.

 

Actually a friend of Facebook recommended that I should go to the musical concert on the crater.

 

It is said that first time for concert on a cater.

 

The crater 'Darangshi' has been chosen to give a concert because it is known as a queen of crater in Jeju island.

 

'Darangshi' literally means a cater holding Moon.

 

 

The union for conservation of Jeju craters hosted to organized this project.

 

The concert on the top of crater? well, it made me looking forward to it.

 

The name of the band giving a concert is 'La fotre' which means 'forest' in french.

 

Jeju island, crater, Darangshi and La fotre...

 

I think they are well harmonized quartet.


 

 

I been up to the top of this crater more than about 50times for five years thanks to my job.

 

But it is first time for me to bring my 5 year-old kid.

 

The kid vigorouly walking on the crater on the picture is my son.

 

I was little bit worried about the steepness of this crater to my kid.

 

However, I knew he could make it.

 

 

Once you hit the road to climb on the cater, a magnificent scenic of panorama is starting spreading before you.

 

The small carter is 'Aggun darangshi' which means a little 'Darangshi' and there are 'Seng-San sunrise peak and Udo' shown beyond the crater.

 

 

This is a top of the crater.

 

Finally we made it. So proud of my son.

 

I knew he could climb very well.

 

I think he has a talent to be a professional climber in the future.

 

I have been taking him many small craters around my town such as 'Gogeunsan' 'Sol-orum' since he was 4, but it is the first time for him to be on this big crater.

 

'Yong-Sil' was the last one he been up on a big mountain.


 

One of my opinion for being a friend with nature is that people should be close to nature since they are young.

 

And Jeju island is the best place for it.

 

I think an education on nature in school in not enough for kinds, especially in Seoul or big cities. Parents' role is crucially important in this part if they want their children to being like nature.

 

When we got to the top of the crater my kid saw people flying on a paragliding and he got a sudden future dream that he will fly on a paragliding when he grow.

 

" Can I try to fly on a paragliding?' my kid asked staring at the people fying

 

"I am sorry, you should be over 30kg if you can fly" one wonman in a group preparing to fly answered.

 

My kid went to be disappointed a lot, almost cry

 

My wife comforted him saying "from now on you should eat a lot then you can fly soon. Ok boy?"

I hope it made him eat a lot.

 

 

 

Another scenic panorama on the crater is a crater itself.

 

The cater is more 100m depth on the hill of 380m.

 

It is a really magnificent crater in Jeju island.

 

When I was here 20 years ago, there were groups of cattle inside of the crater.

 

Actually it could be best shelter for them.

 

Now it became a restrict area for conservation of nature.


 

 

This is a picture of my family.

 

My look is so awkward with sunglasses.

 

 

As time comes to play music lots of people flocked in crowds on the top.

The concert would be clumsy without wit of Oh-SeongJong a leader of the band.

 

Because the atmosphere was distracted by exhausted people climbed up and badgering children.

 

However, people went to calm and be realdy for concert.

 

I realized that the people who love nature love music as well.

The music 'Moon river" had been resonating on the top of the crater.

 

The band prepared music even for children "a family of 3 bears".

 

The children were suddenly applauding with joy.

 

We seemed the tiredness from climbing had gone away.

The more beautiful thing is that the distance between audience and the band is less than 1m.

 

I never seen this kind of concert.

 

It made us to be a family.

 

The feeling was so awesome.


 


I gave up my seat for people who want to enjoy in close to a band and went back to have a view of Halla Mt and groups of craters.

The tango muscis 'Por una Caveza' which reminded me of my favorite movie 'Scent of woman' was resonating from behind.

Why don't you enjoy 'Daranshi Concert' next time.

 

I will invite you.

 


Have you ever heard of 'Lee Joong-Sep'?

 

He is known as Picasso of Korean and one of most famous post modernism artists in Korean.

 

 

He moved to Jeju island from Wonsan in North Korea and he left many master pieces of his life in Jeju island during Korean War which is the most sad period in Korean modern history

after Korea got independence from Japanese' colonization.

 

His actual staying in Jeju island was only 11 months but the beauty of Jeju and simply life of locals inspired to his artistic instinct a lot.


 

 

When you see his works you can see his motivation of his works come from a family.

 

Even though he was suffering from family separation.


 

The painting above describes the happiness of family while they are refuging from the war.

 

The most sad situation but it shows his happiness being with all family members.


 

 

'The bull' shows sad eyes but muscular body.

 

Actually it shows himself.

 

The eyes are for the situation he was at and the body shows that his eruptive inspiration.


 

He got married to Japanese woman and it made him difficult to love her

 because the situation of antagonism between Korea and Japan didn't allow him to do it.

His letter to his wife shows his sincere and sad love to her.


 

 

Lee Joog-sup was born in 1916 in Pyungyang in North Korea.

 

And he died in 1956 in a Red corss hospital by malnutirition.

 

Even though he died by malnutrition he was suffering a lot from emotional damage. 

His works is particular western style with strong color and lines.

However, his works contain lots Korean emotions and grandure and infinitive world.

Tropical fruits could be a source of accumulating of moneny since ancient times
because they were difficult to obtain them.
 
Not only in Europe but also in Asia the tropical fruit tangerines were for only high class people due to high price.



 
Jeju island is remote and the weather and climate are different from those of the main land.
 
Because of that Jeju island has proper climate to grow tangerines Jeju island could be the only place to grow tangerines in Korea pensula.



 






 


 
But the growing tangerines was used  as a exploitation way to native Jeju people.
It was like a slavery plantation field in South America or Africa.
 

It had lasted for hundreds and abolished in 1894.



So, growing tangerines has a tradgic history of jeju island and if you study about the history of Jeju tangerines, you will learn the correlation with main land Korea.
 






 


 




Biologists assume that the origine of
tangerine is India.
 
And it has spread to East and finally came to Jeju island.
Jeju island is the only place where the fruits can be grown.
 





 


 
In the old history book of Japan, it says tangerines were come from Korea to Japan.
 
When Jeju island was mari time kingdom named 'Tamla', Jeju had presented tangerines to BaeJe and Shilla dynasty.
 
However, tangerines were so valuable and costly, local people had never tasted the fruits.
And growing tangerines was controled by government. 
 









 


 
The government officer often came to inspect tangerine groves.
Then they check the tangerine flowers and count, wrote down number of flowers and
came back in harvest time to count the number of fruits.
 
If there are some missing ones, the local famers compensated them.
The tangerine tree was a tree of pain for Jeju people in those time.
 









 


 
When the pain of tangerines arrived at a capital city, there was a big festival in HanYang(Seoul).
 
They gave a ritulal to King's ancesters in the royal cemetery and distribute tangerines to close subjects. In SeongKyun-Gwan which is a scholar school, there was a special recruiting test held.
 
This custom which gave Jeju people pain was abolished after 1894
 









 



The current type of tangerines came out in 1911 and they became so popular to grow.
 
They said that 15 tangerines came to plant in Seogwipo and it is the starting point of growing current tangerines.
However, the only different this is that changing consummers from royal flamily to Japanese. 
The pain of local people for growing tangerines was still stand.



 
Since 1960, there was a military coup occur and the prime minister ot that time tried to encourage Jeju people to grow tangerines. and it became so popular.
 
Since that, there were lots of development for growing tangerine method, then normal people could grow the fruits freely.



 
In 1960~70s a tangerine tree is called 'a university tree' which means if they have a tangerine tree, they could afford to send their children to a university.




 
Now a days tangerine is most common fruits in Korea next to apple.
However, you can hear a sad history from tangerines.
 
 

* Notice- This article is written by non native English speaker


After seeing my clients off at the airport, I went to 'Jeju Mok-Gwana' which was a government official building in old times. This castle was used to be a centre of Jeju city. But during Japanese colonisation, they demolish most of them. In 2005, Jeju local government has remodeled this castle. Just half of them were completed so far.
 Actually the Jeju Mok-Gwana, Jeju provincial office in the Joseon Dynasty, was located around Gwandeokjeong. People presume that there had already been some main office facilities in this region since the Tamna Kingdom Era.


Gwandeokjeong is the oddest governmental building in Jeju, was built in 1448 as a place for training soldiers. It is said that competition of shooting arrow was use to be held here annually. Originally this building was a centre of the castle. But now it has a big street next to this pavilion.


Mangfyengru is the place where the people honoured the king whit gratitude looking toward Seoul where he stayed. It is located in northern part of this castle because King lives on the north from Jeju island.


This is 'Dolharubang' which means stone grandfather in Jeju dialect. 'Dolharubang' were placed in sets face to face at the site of castle gate entrance as a guardian to keep from evil spirits and misfortunes. Some times they defined castle boundaries and worked as an exit and entry control signpost as well.