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(Story of Jeju island) Story of Seolmoondae grandmother. -A Legend of Jeju island

2025. 4. 24. 16:39 | Story of Jeju

  Long time ago, I don't know when but it's long time ago there was a great big giant old lady. Her name was Seolmoondae grandma. She came from Sky to middle of ocean. Then she carried earth from here and there to make a big island in the middle of ocean. That's Jeju island. after that she made a big mountain in the middle of the island. that's Hallasan Mt. She had decided to live in the mountain. No one knows who was her husband, she had 500 children. One day all 500 children went down to the mountain to get food and hunting. 


  She Seolmoondae grandma alone started cooking big portion of porridge for her children. The pot was very big. Imagine! For 500 hundred sons that was supposed be very big. She was standing on the pot and stirring the porridge then by mistake she fell in the porridge. She died. 

 

  After that the 500 children came back home. They were very hungry. They spoted the porridge boiling in the pot. They ran down to the porridge and hurry to eat. It was very delicious. They were devouring the porridge. When they almost finish it, there were some bones on the bottom of the pot. Suddenly they realized there was no mother in home. They looking for their mother. Mother! Mother! We are home! Where are you? They found they ate their own mother.  

 

All five hundreds sons but one who was youngest son were crying crying. " I am sorry, mother, we ate you..." The one arrived late saw all his brothers were crying.  He said "What's going on here?" He wondered. When he found out all his brothers ate their own mother, he blamed his brothers for that. "I can't stay with you anymore, I'll leave" He left home. Due to their too much crying 499 sons  have petrified rocks. The last one also had been petrified a rock. When he left Jeju island he looked back home one last time with lingering regret.

 

If you look at Hallasan Mt, it looks like a woman lying downing facing on sky with long hair. That's Seolmoondae grandmother's face. In the Hallasan Mt, there is a deep valley named Youngsil with many big rocks. We call the rocks Seolmoondae grandmother's sond. The last one is located as a rock on Chagwido island that is located on the west tip of island in Jeju island. 
  

저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)

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(Jeju travel Mr Dee) ‘Gotjawal’ The lava forest in Jeju island.

2025. 1. 19. 14:53 | Story of Jeju/UNESCO Natural heritages


Story of Jeju island by Mr.Dee

The view of Provincial Gotsawal park


2024. 12. 2.
The lava forest named ‘Got-jawal’ in Jeju island is a unique forest. Originally, the word Gotjawal is a combination of two words, ‘got’ and ‘jawal’. ‘Got’ means bush with thorns and ‘Jawal’ means a place with gravels and rocks in the forest.

Since when the word ‘Gotjawal’ has been used to refer to this unique forest that can be only found in Jeju island.  In fact, the word 'Gotjawal' is said to have been created by the late Song Si-tae by combining 'Got' and 'Jawal' while he was studying this forest.

We can find the characteristics of’Gotjawal’ in the creation of Jeju island that was formed recently compared to the mainland Korean peninsula. The Korean peninsula was formed around 1 billion 500 million years ago and Jeju island was formed around 1 million 400 thousands years ago. It’s very time different. The characteristic of the mainland is that because it is old, granite that hardened underground and became lava is exposed on the surface. But compared to this, the land of Jeju Island is very young, so it still appears less weathered.

Here, ‘weathering’ refers to the process in which large stones turn into soil over a long period of time as rocks and water are affected by temperature. Jeju Island is famous for having rough soil and lots of rocks because it has not been weathered much. This also applies to Jeju Island’s forests. If you go into Jeju Island’s forests, there are more rocks than soil. These rocks are formed when lava flows became hardens. When volcano erupted lava flows and it becomes hardens then it has been broken into pieces over time. After that a forest has been formed on top of these broken rocks. The forest of Jeju island formed this way is called ‘Gotjawal.’

There are lots of rocks which has not yet been weathered yet in the Gotjawal forests

Gotjawal is a forest that formed on a terrain where lava flows and becomes rocks. Another characteristic of lava flows is lava tubes. The process of forming a lava tubes is that when low viscosity lava flows, the outer surface hardens and it becomes rock, and when all the hot liquid lava inside soaked out, an empty space is created. This is the process of creating a lava tubes. It could be big or small ones. Anyway, then, when the solidified lava flows and splits and becomes rocks and piles up, an empty space is created inside. This empty space collapses over time. The terrain where the lava cave and lava tube are exposed by this collapse is called  ‘sumgol.’

What role does this ‘sumgol’ play in the Gotjawal forest? First, it stores water. Since there is an empty space underground, when it rains, water flows into it and acts as an underground water storage. Jeju Samdasoo, Jeju mineral water, is also drawn from here in Gotjawal. Second, it emits air of a certain temperature. The temperature of the air is said to be around 12-15 degrees. Since air of a similar temperature is always emitted, cold-temperate plants and temperate plants that would have disappeared long ago can still exist in Gotjawal forests. That is why southern-limit plants and northern-limit plants can coexist in Gotjawal. This is a unique feature of Gotjawal forests that does not exist in other forests.

‘Sumgol’ literally means breathing vent under ground of Gotjawal forest.

Then which plants are northern limit and which plants are southern limit plants? First of all, the ferns with tenacity survived. The representative southern ferns, wrinkled ferns, are commonly found around the Gotjawal Forest. The small ferns, which are usually found above 1,000m of sea level, are also found here in Gotjawal Provincial Park, Jeju, which is less than 300m above sea level. The raccoon ferns are said to be ferns found around the Amnok River in Korea. This raccoon ferns also coexist with other plants here. In particular, the Jeju Sam fern, a unique species found only on Jeju Island, is found in the Gotjawal Forest.

The reason why Jeju Island has such a unique lava forest among numerous volcanic areas around the world is because Jeju Island is a very young land, which means it is less weathered. Jeju Island is neither tropical nor temperate, but rather subtropical. Jeju Island is only about 110km from the mainland, but the warm current flowing around the island makes the winter mild. For this reason, Jeju Island has a subtropical climate.

In addition, the Gotjawal Forest is home to the 2nd class endangered wild plants designated by the Ministry of Environment, such as the dogwood and the bill tree, as well as 7 species of endangered animals, such as the hawk, the bald eagle, the great hawk, the palatine tit, and the long-tailed tit.

Southern limited plant. Wrinkled fern
Above 1000m of sea level plants. Small fern
Raccoon fern are found Amrok river area(north tip of Korean Peninsula
Jeju Sam fern. Endangerd plant and only found in Jeju island.

Until a few decades ago, the Gotjawal forests of Jeju Island were useless land that could not be farmed. In the 1980s, golf courses began to be built one after another in Jeju Island, and most of them were built inside of the Gotjawal forests area. Not only golf courses, but also new cities were built on top of the Gotjawal forests by digging them up. As a result, the Gotjawal forests that remain in Jeju Island today are only those shown on the map below.



Jeju Island is already sick amidst endless debates over between development and preservation. I think we need intense research on how to develop and what to preserve. It will be too late to restore nature that has been destroyed once. The more you see and know, the more you feel the preciousness of it. I hope Jeju Island's lava forest 'Gotjawal' will not be destroyed any more.

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(Jeju travel Mr.Dee) Beomseom-The island of last Mongolian descents.

2017. 7. 20. 09:28 | Story of Jeju/Seogwipo city

In southern part of Jeju island there is an uninhabited island named Beoseom(literally meaning Tiger island). As you see the island it is a scenic and magnificent surrounded by lava columnar joints and eroded caves. However, the thing you can't miss is that the story on the island.

The story is that...
According to the history, Korea Dynasty had fought against Khubilai khan empire for 28 years. The war had started from Chingiz Khan era to Khubilai Khan. Through three times of invasions Korea Dynasty became occupied and even Jeju island at the end(1273).

Afterward Mongolian came to Jeju island they had established big ranches for raising Mongolian pony horses on the purpose of invasion to Japan. They had brought 160 finest Mongolian pony horses to Jeju island and started breeding. They had invaded Japan twice during 1257~1302 but failed due to the Typoon. Later the Typoon that had failed Mongolian invasions was named 'Kamikaje'(literally meaning 'a wind of god') 

The Mongolians who raise and bred horses were called Mokho(nomads from North) have settled down Jeju island since that. Generations to generations for 120 years they had mingled with Jeju locals and gradually became Jeju people. But still Jeju island was occupied directly Mongolian government which was different situation going on from main land Korea. 

About 100 years later, the circumstances of Asia was becoming rapidly changed. The power of Mongolian empire(Won Dynasty) had suddenly receded and at the same time the power of Myung Dynasty of Han Chineses was rising. And through the chaos Korea Dynasty had regained sovereignty from Mongolian empire(Won Dynasty). 

When Myung Dynasty was established after expelled all Mongolian descents informed Korea government that Jeju island should be taken to Myung government. The reason was that Jeju was once controlled directly by Mongolians, so that it should be controlled by Myung government. So Korea government had decided to send an army to expel Mongolian descents(Mokho-nomad from north) out of Jeju island in order to take Jeju island before Myung Government.

Mokho had strongly resisted against Korea Army. They had a war, fight, killing, and at the end massacre. In the long run Mokhos who were being defeated had fled to Beoseom and made last defense line. However, they were all killed by Korea Army and Jeju island went under Korea Dynasty again.

This island is not only beautiful but also is rich in stories. At having sight seeing, if you appreciate the story with imagining the last Mongolian descents who were fighting against Korea Government it would be more impressive. 

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저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)
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(Jeju travel Mr.Dee) stone walls in Jeju island.

2015. 10. 13. 16:59 | Story of Jeju/Jeju cultural stories

Jeju island.
The island which is abundant in winds, stones, and women. Actually, It is my home island which can be explained with these three things. Among those I am going to explain about stones.

When I look back on old days, I can remember vividly there are so many rocks in everywhere. Rocks, I was quite interested in.

I played with my friends stacking stone walls dividing into two sides and played a war game with throwing stones at each side.
Now a days, young kids who are more interested in video games can't imagine how we played with stones.

Probably, stones has influenced on not only kids but also every aspect of Jeju people's life.

​



Some people think volcanic soil is fertile but it's far from it. The volcanic land is barren because rain water always penetrates into the ground and doesn't hold on surface. And the barren land has given Jeju people hard life.

Land give us food and the food in Jeju island infers a culture of it. So, you can peep their life through the food.

​



Upon thinking of Jeju island, what is the first thing come up to you? There are so many but probably one of them it might be a 'stone grandfather' which rigidly stood in front of a gate.

'Harbang' is a local language for 'grandfather'. According to a record, it was called 'Wooseokmok' or 'Beok-su head'. Now, it is called as 'Dol-harbang in general.

There are various views about its origin.

First view is that it came from superstitions. When people believed in shamanism, they created their god figure took after man's penis. Which means it is a kind of phallus stone.

Second view is that it came from Mongolian culture. There is a similiar stone to 'stone grandfather' in Mongolia called 'Hunchollo'. Jeju island had been occupied by Mongolian for 150 years. It might influence on Jeju culture.

Anyway its function was to give people property and prevent from evil spirit. It maintains a close relationship with the lives of the people in Jeju.

​



There are many abbreviations in Jeju language. For example, We call 'San' for a grave('San-so' in Korean). And a stone wall surrounding a grave is called 'Sandam'('dam' means wall).
One interesting thing is that according to Jeju custom people stack up a stone wall around their ancestor's grave.

When I traveled in other island, I was surprised to see a grave stone walls. It was a round shape stone wall while it is square shape in Jeju island.

Originally, they have stacked up stone walls surround the ancestor's grave to prevent wild animals from coming into or fire spreading on the grave.

Now a days a size of stone wall shows an achievement during their ancestor's life time.

​



Another peculiar funeral custom in Jeju island is a child stone.

In Jeju island the old always is accompanied by a child. The reason is that there are few schools in those days, so that a child need to have chances to learn. They need each other for learning for children and preventive measures for an emergency situations for the olds.

Generally, funeral and death always show apathy of life, cold and solemn. But Jeju island's funeral shows warm and relax to part their loved ancestors.

​




Jeju stone mill which is called 'Molgorye' in Jeju word. 'Mol' means a horse, and 'gorye' means grind.

This is one of stone cultures in Jeju island extinguished now a days. It was was operated by a horse or cow power to grind crops in a communal place. Now, it is displayed on a corner of a village only use for welcoming tourists.


There is a funny joke. If horses on the mill don't work diligently, people put a female horse in front and male horse on the other side to chase each. then it works well.

​



When you travel in Jeju coast lines, you can see stone labyrinths. Fish come in during high tide and couldn't get out in low tide. It is called 'wondam'

저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)

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(Jeju Travel Mr.Dee) We are harmonized with nature: darangshi concert

2014. 9. 29. 19:05 | Story of Jeju/Jeju cultural stories

* Notice- This article is written by none native English speaker


The weather was perfect today.

 

I had decided to climb up to the top of 'Darangshi' crater with my family.

 

Actually a friend of Facebook recommended that I should go to the musical concert on the crater.

 

It is said that first time for concert on a cater.

 

The crater 'Darangshi' has been chosen to give a concert because it is known as a queen of crater in Jeju island.

 

'Darangshi' literally means a cater holding Moon.

 

 

The union for conservation of Jeju craters hosted to organized this project.

 

The concert on the top of crater? well, it made me looking forward to it.

 

The name of the band giving a concert is 'La fotre' which means 'forest' in french.

 

Jeju island, crater, Darangshi and La fotre...

 

I think they are well harmonized quartet.


 

 

I been up to the top of this crater more than about 50times for five years thanks to my job.

 

But it is first time for me to bring my 5 year-old kid.

 

The kid vigorouly walking on the crater on the picture is my son.

 

I was little bit worried about the steepness of this crater to my kid.

 

However, I knew he could make it.

 

 

Once you hit the road to climb on the cater, a magnificent scenic of panorama is starting spreading before you.

 

The small carter is 'Aggun darangshi' which means a little 'Darangshi' and there are 'Seng-San sunrise peak and Udo' shown beyond the crater.

 

 

This is a top of the crater.

 

Finally we made it. So proud of my son.

 

I knew he could climb very well.

 

I think he has a talent to be a professional climber in the future.

 

I have been taking him many small craters around my town such as 'Gogeunsan' 'Sol-orum' since he was 4, but it is the first time for him to be on this big crater.

 

'Yong-Sil' was the last one he been up on a big mountain.


 

One of my opinion for being a friend with nature is that people should be close to nature since they are young.

 

And Jeju island is the best place for it.

 

I think an education on nature in school in not enough for kinds, especially in Seoul or big cities. Parents' role is crucially important in this part if they want their children to being like nature.

 

When we got to the top of the crater my kid saw people flying on a paragliding and he got a sudden future dream that he will fly on a paragliding when he grow.

 

" Can I try to fly on a paragliding?' my kid asked staring at the people fying

 

"I am sorry, you should be over 30kg if you can fly" one wonman in a group preparing to fly answered.

 

My kid went to be disappointed a lot, almost cry

 

My wife comforted him saying "from now on you should eat a lot then you can fly soon. Ok boy?"

I hope it made him eat a lot.

 

 

 

Another scenic panorama on the crater is a crater itself.

 

The cater is more 100m depth on the hill of 380m.

 

It is a really magnificent crater in Jeju island.

 

When I was here 20 years ago, there were groups of cattle inside of the crater.

 

Actually it could be best shelter for them.

 

Now it became a restrict area for conservation of nature.


 

 

This is a picture of my family.

 

My look is so awkward with sunglasses.

 

 

As time comes to play music lots of people flocked in crowds on the top.

​

The concert would be clumsy without wit of Oh-SeongJong a leader of the band.

 

Because the atmosphere was distracted by exhausted people climbed up and badgering children.

 

However, people went to calm and be realdy for concert.

 

I realized that the people who love nature love music as well.

​

The music 'Moon river" had been resonating on the top of the crater.

 

The band prepared music even for children "a family of 3 bears".

 

The children were suddenly applauding with joy.

 

We seemed the tiredness from climbing had gone away.

​​

The more beautiful thing is that the distance between audience and the band is less than 1m.

 

I never seen this kind of concert.

 

It made us to be a family.

 

The feeling was so awesome.


 


I gave up my seat for people who want to enjoy in close to a band and went back to have a view of Halla Mt and groups of craters.

​

The tango muscis 'Por una Caveza' which reminded me of my favorite movie 'Scent of woman' was resonating from behind.

​

Why don't you enjoy 'Daranshi Concert' next time.

 

I will invite you.

 

저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)

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Jeju travel Mr.Dee/ Lotus flowrs pond-Yonhaw-Ji

2014. 9. 20. 12:30 | Story of Jeju

YonHwaJi is the pond of lotus flowers.

YonHwa means lotus flower in Korean and Ji means place.

 

Actually the flowers blossom in July and August. So, the time I visited at the place the flowers already have been faded. 

 

Well I feel little shame for that.

The story says that the pond YonHwaJi was a small pond in Korea dynasty and in 17th century they reconstructed.

 

 After that it was built again in 1950s for 2years and it became current a lotus flowers pond.


The west southern part of the pond had been used to be drinking water and rest of places for live stocks.

Actually this lotus pond is a park for local people.

 

There are so many identical parks in Korea.

They look a little letdown.

 

However, if we make unique park in Jeju island, it will be great sources for tourism.

You will see full of lotus flowers and hydronic flowers  in July and August.

Not only plants but also there are so many kinds of aquatic animals and plants.

This is a small natural eco system.

 

At the entrance there is a warning for taking care of children.
If you bring children you should be careful.

 

The depth of water looks shallow but actually it's quite deep.

Some time the accidents are happened.




 

 

There is a beautiful school next to YonHwaJi decorated in rainbow color.

The name of the school is 'Deoduk elementary school'.

I asw some tourists tried to go in to take some photos of the school.

I think it is an interesting school.

I wish I have a house like this school.
Well, this school became the model of my future house.

 



저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)

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Jeju travel Mr.Dee/ The passon of Lee joong sup.

2014. 9. 19. 15:28 | Story of Jeju/Jeju cultural stories


Have you ever heard of 'Lee Joong-Sep'?

 

He is known as Picasso of Korean and one of most famous post modernism artists in Korean.

 

 

He moved to Jeju island from Wonsan in North Korea and he left many master pieces of his life in Jeju island during Korean War which is the most sad period in Korean modern history

after Korea got independence from Japanese' colonization.

 

His actual staying in Jeju island was only 11 months but the beauty of Jeju and simply life of locals inspired to his artistic instinct a lot.


 

 

When you see his works you can see his motivation of his works come from a family.

 

Even though he was suffering from family separation.


 

The painting above describes the happiness of family while they are refuging from the war.

 

The most sad situation but it shows his happiness being with all family members.


 

 

'The bull' shows sad eyes but muscular body.

 

Actually it shows himself.

 

The eyes are for the situation he was at and the body shows that his eruptive inspiration.


 

He got married to Japanese woman and it made him difficult to love her

 because the situation of antagonism between Korea and Japan didn't allow him to do it.

His letter to his wife shows his sincere and sad love to her.


 

 

Lee Joog-sup was born in 1916 in Pyungyang in North Korea.

 

And he died in 1956 in a Red corss hospital by malnutirition.

 

Even though he died by malnutrition he was suffering a lot from emotional damage. 

His works is particular western style with strong color and lines.

However, his works contain lots Korean emotions and grandure and infinitive world.

저작자표시 비영리 변경금지 (새창열림)

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Jeju travel Mr.Dee / Seolmundae Grandmother & her 500 sons

2014. 7. 14. 19:30 | Story of Jeju

Seolmundae & her 500 sons

On the west south side slope of mountain Halla, there is a picturesque place called "Youngsil", where steep stiffs and rugged rocks rise high up in the sky. These rocks are called five hundred generals or five hundred arahans.

Legend has it that Grandma Seolmundae lived with her five hundred sons long ago. In a ear of severe drought they were starved, and the five hundred sons went out to find some food. Waiting for her five hundred sons return home Grandma Seolundae was cooking soup but slipped into the boiling pot and drowned.

 

Not knowing of their mother's death, the famished sons devoured the soup which they found more delicious than ever. The youngest son returned home last and founda none in the soup which he realized was his mother's. He angrily denounced his brothers who ate the soup their mother drowned in and ran out crying for his mother.

He ran until he reached as far as Chagwi island of Kosanri, Hankyingmyun and there he turned into a rock. His remaining bothers watched this and stood together lamenting mother's death every night and day until they all turned into rocks. They became the five hundred generals.

저작자표시 (새창열림)

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